Pärnu, Lemme and Kabli with kids and dogs: Estonia's west coast by campervan

Pärnu, Lemme and Kabli are three stops on Estonia's west coast, on the way from the Tallinn area down to Latvia: the beach in Pärnu, the RMK forest campsite in Lemme a few steps from the Baltic, and the nature trail in Kabli. On 10 August 2026 we set off there by campervan with the kids and dogs from Vanamõisa near Tallinn: after a quick stop in Pärnu we spent the night in Lemme, and the next morning we walked the trail in Kabli. The day before, we had walked the boardwalks across the Viru Bog.

If you are travelling with a dog, remember one thing: from 1 June to 31 August dogs are not allowed on Pärnu's central beach. The town has set aside several smaller beaches for dogs instead, and we list them in the practical info below.

Pärnu: a short stop at the beach

Pärnu was 120 km away. We wanted to walk out along the mole, the stone breakwater that runs far out to sea at the mouth of the river. Once we got there, it turned out we couldn't take the dogs onto the beach. We left the van in a paid car park in the centre and spent just a little while on the beach.

We only had time to paddle in the sea, and Helenka played in the wet sand by the water's edge. Then we carried on south.

RMK Lemme: camping right by the sea

RMK is Estonia's State Forest Management Centre. Besides looking after the forests, it runs hiking trails, nature trails and campsites. We got to Lemme at about 3 PM. Driving in costs EUR 5 per vehicle, and there is no limit on how long you stay. There are grills, benches and shelters among the pine trees, and you park wherever you find a free spot. It feels almost like wild camping.

The toilets and showers cost extra, and the toilets are only open until a set time, so in the end it comes to about the same as a regular campsite. The location, though, is brilliant: you are just a few steps from the Baltic shore.

Unfortunately the weather turned. It rained and a strong wind blew. We went down to the beach with our kites, but the rain soon chased us away. Cooking dinner on the grill was a real struggle, and at night the wind rocked our van.

RMK Kabli: nest boxes, a tower and a forestry museum

In the morning the wind was still so strong that we moved breakfast to a different shelter. Then we drove a few kilometres on to Kabli. The RMK nature trail here follows wooden boardwalks along the sea. Every few hundred metres there is a small box with a lid, showing what you can spot in the area. Helenka ran from one box to the next.

Part of the trail runs along the shore, but there is no beach here. There is a lookout tower on the way. The wind and rain soon drove us back into the forest. At the end of the trail there is a tower that is supposed to imitate bird calls, but it was broken when we were there.

The trail ends at the RMK nature centre building. Inside there is a free museum about the forest and the work of foresters, with stuffed birds among other things. The biggest surprise was the ladies' toilet: it had jars of forest animal droppings on display.

Running away from the rain

We had planned to stay at a campsite near Kabli, but the rain wouldn't let up. So we decided to escape to Riga, 125 km to the south. You can read how that went in our post Riga with kids and dogs. The whole route, day by day, is in Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia by campervan with kids.

Practical info

Checked in November 2026.

• Dogs are not allowed on Pärnu's central beach during the bathing season, from 1 June to 31 August. You can take a dog to Raeküla beach at the end of Harju street, Mai beach by Mere street, Vana-Pärnu beach and the left bank of the river by the mole.
• When we were in Pärnu in 2026, parking in the centre near the beach was paid.
• RMK Lemme campsite is about 18 km south of Pärnu, off the old Pärnu-Ikla road. Driving in costs EUR 5 per vehicle, cash only. Pitching a tent is free.
• Lemme has a drinking water well and dry toilets. In summer a service building with pay toilets, showers and a sauna is open. Bring your own firewood or buy it on site.
• The RMK Kabli nature centre is open daily from 10:00 to 18:00 in June, July and August, daily from 10:00 to 16:00 in May, and Monday to Friday from 10:00 to 16:00 from September to April. Entry was free when we visited.
• The Kabli nature trail is about 2 km long and runs along wooden boardwalks. It has two birdwatching towers and educational nest boxes. In autumn there is a bird ringing station here.
• Our dogs walked the Kabli boardwalks with us and spent the night with us at the Lemme campsite.